There is one dish that unites the Veneto region, from the Venice lagoon to the hills of Vicenza. It manifests itself in infinite tasty shades: it is baccalà. This dish is not just an ingredient. It is a true culinary icon, a symbol of resilience, tradition, and, above all, a complex and fascinating gastronomic identity.
If you think baccalà is a uniform dish, prepare to discover a fundamental secret. In Venetian cuisine, we almost always talk about stockfish (cod dried in the air, particularly the one from the Lofoten Islands in Norway). True baccalà, on the other hand, is salted cod. Despite this distinction, tradition has confused the names, making them synonyms for a culinary love that has lasted for centuries.
The History of Baccalà: From Shipwreck to Venetian Legend
The arrival of stockfish in Veneto is a fascinating story dating back to 1432. In that year, the Venetian navigator Pietro Querini was shipwrecked on the rocky coasts of the Lofoten Islands. There, he discovered the Nordic method of preserving cod through drying. Querini immediately understood its value, recognizing it as a food with a long shelf life.
Upon his return to Venice, stockfish was introduced to the markets. It immediately found favor with the Republic for its portability and high nutritional value. From Venice, the dried cod (our Venetian baccalà) spread quickly inland. It became a pillar of the peasant and bourgeois diet, especially during the lean days required by the Church.
Baccalà alla Vicentina: The Undisputed King
If there is one dish that embodies the perfection of this tradition, it is the Baccalà alla Vicentina. Note: in Vicenza, the dish is strictly prepared with stockfish.
The recipe is protected by the Venerabile Confraternita del Bacalà alla Vicentina (Venerable Brotherhood of Vicenza-style Salt Cod). It requires a long and patient preparation. It is a symbol of the Vicentini’s love for slowness and quality. After several days of soaking, the stockfish is cooked slowly and for a long time. The cooking takes place in a terracotta or copper pot with abundant onion, milk, olive oil, grated parmesan, and anchovies.
The cooking must be very slow and over a very gentle heat. This ritual transforms the cod’s flesh into a buttery and flavorful consistency.
Key Difference: The Baccalà alla Vicentina is presented in pieces, submerged in a dense and creamy sauce. It is traditionally served with soft polenta, creating an unforgettable contrast of textures.
Baccalà Mantecato: The Pearl of the Venetian Lagoon
Moving towards the coast, the Venetian interpretation changes drastically. Here, the emphasis is on creaminess and the simplicity of the ingredients. Thus, the famous Baccalà Mantecato (creamed cod) was born.
This version is the soul of Venetian cicchetti and spritz. The stockfish is boiled. Subsequently, it is vigorously “creamed” or “whipped,” often with electric whisks or by hand, as per tradition. Extra virgin olive oil is added slowly, with just a touch of salt and pepper. Neither milk nor cheese is used. The result is a frothy, light, and delicate mousse, of a candid white color.
How to Enjoy It: The Baccalà Mantecato is the appetizer par excellence. It is spread on small crostini, toasted polenta triangles, or simply served on a spoon as a starter to a lagoon meal.
The Lesser-Known Variations Inland
The influence of baccalà does not stop in Venice and Vicenza. It also spreads with unique local variations:
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Padua and Treviso: Here, baccalà tends to be prepared in umido (stewed) with tomato, olives, and capers. This is a more Mediterranean interpretation. It deviates from the richness of the Vicentina dish and the lightness of the Venetian one. It is often accompanied by seasonal vegetables, such as the local broccoloni (cauliflower).
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Verona: The Veronese tradition sometimes includes baccalà in winter soups or baked pasticcios. This combines the richness of the cod with the practicality of the mainland flavors.
In every city, baccalà is not just a meal. It is a link to the past, to the voyages of the Serenissima, and to the genius loci that managed to transform dried fish from the far North in a local gastronomic treasure. Tasting it in different provinces of Veneto means undertaking a true culinary journey. This reveals the adaptability and history of the ingredient.
It is precisely in this diversity that the richness of Venetian cuisine lies. It is capable of enhancing the same raw material with recipes diametrically opposed, both rooted in the heart of tradition.
Discover the Authenticity of Veneto
Do you want to discover many more stories and curiosities about Venetian culture and food and wine? Would you like to receive unique travel tips and itineraries? Read our Venice-Box articles to find out more. Immerse yourself in the heart of tradition: take the ATVO bus and arrive directly in the center of Venice to enjoy an authentic plate of Baccalà Mantecato with cicchetti in its native land!
